Friday, 15 November 2013
ngjames772photography: Sunrise in Kong Kong
ngjames772photography: Sunrise in Kong Kong: I took this shot on the morning of 13th October 2013 at around 6.30 am. I am always looking forward to sunrise shots due to the wonderful c...
Thursday, 7 November 2013
Sunset in Purple

Tuesday, 29 October 2013
Floating Jetty- How much is too much?

So the question is, how much is too much? It all depends on you, how you want your images to look like, how you want to present your images for others to see from your own viewpoints. It is your pictures, your own work of art, it belongs to you, edit as much as you want to get the results you aimed for, it is digital, nothing is wasted in the process, make that image yours and share! Any critisism is good as it is the only way to improve and to master photography. Beauty Lies in the Eyes of the Beholder! Happy shooting everyone!
Wednesday, 16 October 2013
Sunset in Blue

a) ND #6 mounted to 18-55mm kit lens. Turn off the VR. Mounted the camera to a sturdy tripod.
b) Set the ISO to 100 for minimum noise and maximum shutter speed.
c) Set to Aperture priority mode and set it to f22 for least light to extend exposures time.
d) Compose your shot and check the exposure timed to at least 30 seconds to smoothen the water out. If the time is too short you can stack another ND filter onto the first ND filter or you can add a polarising filter to lengthen exposure time.
e) Take a test shot, if you notice too much rippling of the water of the picture came out too bright, change the exposure compensation in your camera to -5EV if it allows. Extend your shutter speed to 45 seconds or 1 minute. From now on it is trial and error.
f) Make sure you use the self timer or a cable to reduce camera shake.
For the picture above, I had to take five shots of 30s to get one right by manipulating the f stops and exposure compensation from the camera. It is a bit tricky and you will need a bit of luck to get a shot like this but it is all worth it. You can take a few hundreds of photos a day but one photo like this will make my day!
Happy Shooting! I sincerely hope that to those of you who have never tried this kind of photography techniques can start trying, there will be alot of hit and misses but it is all worth it when you hit one and you will treasure every moment of it and shares it to your friends and family.
Sunday, 13 October 2013
Sunrise in Kong Kong

a) Mode: Aperture priority and set to f/8 or f/11 for maximum depth of field.
b) ISO: 100 for least noise and also to slow down the shutter speed to optimise misty water effect.
c) Shutter speed: Since you are in Aperture priority mode, the camera will decides for you.
d) Focal length: Widest as possible /18mm.
e) Sturdy tripod is a must for sharp images due to the long exposure time.
f) Filters: Polarising filter for good colour and water reproduction and a #4 ND filter+polarising filter once the sun appears.
g) Shutter cable: Better if you have it or use in-camera self timer to reduce camera shake.
Take one or two test shots to check the exposures of the images. If it is to dark or too bright(which is not acceptable in sunrise shots) change the exposure settings via the exposure compensation function in the camera for optimum exposures.
Of all kinds of photography, sunrise shooting is the one I like best because each and everytime the results will amaze me and my friends for the colours it produces is unmatched to shooting at any other time of the day.
If you have never tried sunrise shoots before, it is time to try it and I promise you that you won't regret it and will go back for more.........Happy Shooting!
Wednesday, 9 October 2013
Seascape in sunset

For most shots, I do not like to place the sun in the center. I would prefer to place it either to the left or to the right side of the frame. The reason? Well, take a look at this picture. you will see two main colour to the sky. On the left it is blue which is not effected by the sun and on the right it is orange. It also gets reflected to the water so there is more colour to this composition. If you framed the sun in the centre, all you will get is one bright orange colour to the whole picture. How much of the beach to be included in the picture depends on your taste and the kind of compositions you have in mind.
Equipments? A tripod is a must have item. The sun is low, the amount of light is not enough to allow you to handheld the camera at slow shutter speed in order to produce correct exposures. In order to highlights the tree trunks and the pillars, HDR techniques are going to be needed here. In a normal single shot picture of this kind, you are most likely to produce a silhoutte photo. Most of your objects in the picture will becomes black in colour. In using HDR techniques, you can produce pictures like this as seen with your eyes there and then. You can feel like you are in this picture! This is the kind of pictures I like to take and I will share it with you. HDR may not need to look "painterly", you can edit to your liking, for me that would be as natural as possible.
When everything is set up and ready, take three to five shots of the same scene with different exposures of -5,-2,0, +2,+5. Make sure you don't move the camera. If your camera has the auto exposure bracketing function, set it and let the camera do the work for you. As for me, my camera Nikon d3200 does not come with this function so will have to do it manually. Here is how I do it:
a) set the camera to manually mode. If your camera comes with auto ISO, turn it off and set the ISO to 100 for minimal noise reproduction.
b) set the Aperture to f8 or f11 if you have a mild ND filter which will help in producing misty water effects or set to f16 or f22 if no filters used. Also put on the polarising filter for better contrast to the sky and the water.
c) shoot in RAW if you can but jpeg will also get you the result don't worry.
d) now look into the view finder or live view if you like to compose using the LCD screen and the exposure
metre will show its current exposure. Dial your shutter speed dial to underexposure to -2 or -5 depending on how many exposures you are going to take. Take care not to move the camera while doing this. Take the shot via cable or self timer because you don't want to move the camera. Then dial the shutter speed until the exposure metre indicates normal exposure(middle) if you intend to take three exposures and take the picture. Dial again for the next shot to +2 or +5 for overexposure and take the shot. I prefer doing it this way because it is easier then changing exposures compensation in the camera as it is more of a hassle and also when you load up your pictures in the computer it won't be able to detect the exposure values.
e) process your images with any photo softwares that can merge these photos for example easyHDR, Fusion HDR or the one I am using the Photomatrix Pro.
f) after merging the photos, edit as you like. You can edit in as many programmes as you like for the effects you are after.
Hope this will help in your future shots of these nature. If you like to know more in depth, please feel free to write to me. Happy Shooting!
Monday, 7 October 2013
Dream Butterfly
Sunrise vs Sunset

In Sunset, I normally goes to certain beaches in my area which faces the west so that I can include the sun in the pictures. Sunset shots is the easiest for not much planning were needed. I would just bring along my equipments to work and right after work just scoots to the location on my trusted scooter. I will have plenty of shots by the beach while waiting for the sun to set in roughly 2 hours. The problem with sunset shots were the amount of activities by the beach in the late evening where families with their children and fisherman will patronise beach for their own activities. Framing and composition becomes harder. Sunset shots tend to be on the warm side of the colour temperature so will get orange to red tint for most shots. So which kind of shots do you like, sunrise or sunset? As for me, I like both! By the way, this picture was shot at 6.30 am in tha morning at Kampung Pasir Putih, Pasir Gudang, Johor, Malaysia.
Sunday, 6 October 2013
Way of Life

Saturday, 5 October 2013
Low Tides

Friday, 4 October 2013
Dragonfly
I am no expert on this but with the settings that I am using for this kind of shots never fails. So here it is.
1) Set the ISO to auto. That's because you will be chasing after these guys up and down, back and forth so the light meterings are never constant. 2) Choose shutter priority mode. Important when your are chasing a fast moving butterfly for instant. Minimun 1/250 to 1/500 when handheld. 3) Since you will be shooting butterflies and dragonflies, macro lenses are hard to use. take out your zoom lens 55-200mm for instant (that's what I prefer to use) and zoom it to maximun 200mm. That should give you the nice bokeh you see in this picture. Don't worry about the aperture, in shutter priority mode the camera will optimises it for you automatically. 4) Set your light metering to center weighted for more accurate exposure to the subject. 5) Set your camera focus point to dynamic or 3D if your camera has it because you are going to have a hard time chasing and focusing this subjects and lastly 6) Set your camera to continuous shooting mode where when you pressed the shooting button the camera will shoots continuously as long as the button remained pressed and only shoots when focus i locked onto the subject. Your chances of getting a good and sharp focus shots will be increased. There, that's about it. Hopefully this helps and if you have any questions feel free to leave a comment in my blog. I will try my best to help and answer. Happy shooting and experimenting!
Boat Number 9

Thursday, 3 October 2013
New Village

Sunrise in Oyster Village

Wednesday, 2 October 2013
Passion and Desire

Sunset Made in Heaven
Sunset by the Lake.


Village Exotica

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